Відео

Thank you it's so much helpful to me I also find it really difficult to understand them because I'm still learning 🙏🙏☺️

lovely

Congratulations Dan! 💯... and pretty quick :D Love to listen to the podcast while I'm doing simple electronic work, or editing or something. Thanks very much for existing 😅

Thx! I've got 3 ext cords cut with hedger 😂

I finally made it over to the YT to congratulate you on 100 episodes. It's been an honor to be on and a joy to listen. Andrea was my suggestion. Good memory.

how to reset it?

So it can Boost low current to high current? Ex: 1 amp boost to 10 Amps?

Can I use this device to drive a 12 V 8 A motor from a 550 W 48 V solar panel ?

Yep I put you in contact with Mehdi, and Dave 👍

YT don't let you rate anything. Not even a dislike.

Congratulations on the 100th episode. 🥃 Here's to 100+ more.

Thank you very very much. Dad's down in the Dominican Republic. We got his clearance to fly home yesterday, so we're aiming to have him home this Sunday. The bills persist, but so do we. <3

❤

THE most important test is NOT how many Amp hour per cell... THE constant discharge rate of the battery cell under load is the most important; when running a drill/equipment under load, many cheap fake battries/cell are unable or not rated to supply the amp/load required by the drill and the equipment will stop working long before the fake battery discharge 8% to 12% of it's (tested) capacity.

Thumbs up mate!!! Please expand your knowledge some more, you are doing a great job here. My suggestion on where to go next would be to learn about millis(). This is way better than using delays considering delays completely stop the code from running whilst a delay is in progress. Start with looking at the blink without delay code built in to the arduino IDE. This will help you later on when making more complex programs :P

Is it straight forward to use one keyboard button to control 2 Arduinos simultaneously?

If you are still into low cost meters, check out a PM18C

My motor has a peak current of 3.6Amps at stall condition. My application requires the motor to stall for 5-10s. Is there a way to limit the maximum current through a 24v dc motor to 3.6amps in this motor driver?

Very useful! Many thanks 😊

Wow manificent work!.. .Can I use type c port instead of micro?

Would this work with an Arduino Nano as well?

Pm me can you to install do sola paint of charger..

need the schematics, kindly provide if possible

Thank you. The best, simple video hands down

Canadians are not very smart

Very well explained mate, thanks for sharing

Great interview, and thanks for the shout out :) For those interested in building a Milo Mill, I was really worried about building something that required so much precision, (I'm a CNC noob) but honestly, the kit was a dream to build. The docs are awesome, and the community is fun and helpful. I highly recommend this project!

When you asked Jake the usual final question, I was'nt expecting restaurant. LOL

I thought you were going to add thermal compound to those heaters.

Good job! I subscribed👍

I did not see you put a battery in it.

You were right. Under 5 mins to get it working. Thanks.

Does this behave like a real keyboard if you hold a key down? Multiple characters are being put out?

How do you wire this with RC receiver?

Signal flow is normally left to right, not up and down. The pencil sketch is OK but can be done in CAD. Pin numbering sequence in example is arbitrary and is never used as in this example. Use Manufacturer's part numbers for unique parts, not a generic name like in this example. Center-point of of part is EXTREMELY important, as it is used by machine placing. (Not the "module" in this example). For symbols not so critical, but does not hurt. Grid alignment for Symbols is VERY important, as else it could mess up a schematic. TURN ON grids to 0.1" in schematic for correct pin spacing, text not important for this. Making the Footprint turn on the grid, decrease grid resolution until you find the center point on the drawing. Everything in he foot print is referenced from the CENTER not corners like the mechanical engineers. Start with making a document layer outline of the part for error proofing. Read the mfg. data sheet for the part, usually at the end of the document. Use whatever measurement units are used in the document. Center point most often has to be calculated as most data sheet are crap. All pad locations are referenced +-XY from the center. If pad boundaries are in the data sheet they can be drawn in a document layer for the footprint for error checking. Beware of "standard" foot prints. Very often small deviation between manufacturers can make you a bad day. Many foot prints also have several similar looking names, some four or five for the exact same foot print. Use IPC standard for silkscreen *Pin1* orientation marks, and make sure orientation marks can be easily read after the part is placed and not covering it up. This may mean editing every foot print in your libraries, as many foot print designers seem to lack practical experience. The library part, (called "Device" in other programs) also need a B.O.M reference, Vendor, Part Number, Price, and Hyperlink. This takes time, but saves massive amount of time putting a BOM together. I'm not a KiCAD expert

Can I parallel two of this units and set their output voltage and current the same?

Wow that's really clear. I just looked it up and it seems like Amazon has it for about $379 with a $30 coupon so it must be good. I just ordered the Andonstar AD246SM So I hope it's almost as clear as the AD409 Pro. I paid $125 on Amazon with a 10% coupon

Did you ever get a video that shows the proper capacitor and it's range after that?

you need to sell T-shirts that say "re-conjigering"

Hi, i purchase DL24MP-FX and this is newest version. On my board i have jumpers 300 450 600 1200. When i press M button and power in i see meeenu to 3200W! 150 300 450 600 1200 1800 2400 and 3000. But jumpers is only to 1200W :) understand this? Regards from poland.

Where is part 2?

Great video. I took apart a Makita 2.0AH 18V. It is battery balanced.

18650 20r mean 20r 2000mah

My dad had one of these too, but he replaced it with a modern one after it began getting too smoky and sparky.

btw, 10 Ohms showing at 10.1 is 1% off, (10x out of spec of resistor accuracy)

Metabo batteries balance charge from the factory

Don't change a thing PileofStuff. You clearly deserve 10x the subs, but your views show people love what you're doing. I wish I could do live streams, but I'd be afraid of the things I'd say live lol. I wish I could watch them when I work, but I get distracted too easily. Totally jealous of Gadget Reboot's Tandy/Radio Shack haul(s). Regarding the gameshow, someone would have to be pretty freaking brave to challenge that guy to anything electronics-related. I still use Radio Shack's "silver bearing solder" on anything that is going to take stress like laptop barrel jacks and I've never found anything better for that purpose. As always, fantastic conversation.

HOW much multimeter

Why cannot connect two 12v charger together and start to charge? Because they're a SAME GENDER! Aaaahahaha!😂😂😂